KOOKOOLAN FARMS
A small, diversified family farm in Yamhill, Oregon, committed to organic farming practices, rotational grazing, grass-based animal husbandry, humane animal handling practices, and producing the healthiest, best-tasting, premium poultry in Oregon.

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Recipes

Basic Roast Chicken Recipe Grass-fed poultry is firmer and leaner than battery-raised poultry.  For best flavor and texture, turn down the heat and cook covered.    
1.      
“Farmer CZ” likes to brine her chickens first by combining 3 Tbsp salt with ½ gallon of water, and aromatics such as a drop of lavender oil, lemon oil, herbs, and/or fresh black pepper, and 1 to 4 Tbsp of an acid such as vinegar or wine.  In a bowl or ZiplockTM bag, cover the chicken and refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.
2.      
Pat the chicken dry, rub the inside with salt and pepper. Stuff if desired.
3
.      
Place chicken in a covered roasting pan, or soaked clay pot, or cover your pan with foil.
4.       
Bake, covered, at 325°F.  A 4-lb chicken takes about 90 minutes; 5- to 6-pound chickens can take 2 hours.  When thermometer inserted between thigh and body reads 180°F or juices run clear, the chicken is thoroughly cooked.  For crisp, golden skin, remove the cover, brush the chicken with oil or butter, increase the temperature to 400°F and bake or broil for ten additional minutes.  Remove from oven, and allow to rest 5-10 min. before cutting.



Guinea Hen, or Faraona in Italian; Pintard in French; Pintada in Spanish) is a lovely, rich-flavored game bird about the same size as a chcicken.  Kookoolan Farms generally offers these about once a year.  This recipe is from our good friends Richard White and Charlene Murdoch.


FARAONA AL SUCCO D’UVA

(Roasted Guinea Hen with Grape Juice)


Ingredients:

            1 Guinea hen, well cleaned and dry

            1 onion, medium chop

            1 carrot, medium chop

            I stalk of celery, medium chop

            Extra virgin olive oil

            4 cups white grape must (don’t know why you couldn’t use red)

            5 leaves of sage

            1 handful of herbs such as rosemary & sage

            several cloves of garlic

            1 Tbsp butter

            1 Tbsp flour

            salt & pepper

 

First, prepare sale herbe, a mixture of ½ sea salt and ½ a mixture of equal parts black pepper, finely chopped rosemary & sage and finely chopped garlic.  Make about a cup.  It’s a fabulous, all purpose seasoning, great on roasted potatoes, too.

 

Method:

 

1.                  Cut a deep slit (3/4” wide) in each side of the hen between the breast & thigh joint.  Stuff 1 tablespoon of sale herbe into each slit.

2.                  Put sage leaves and 1-2 tablespoons of sales herbe in the hen’s cavity.  Try to coat cavity generously.

3.                  Place the chopped vegetables in a baking pan and the Guinea hen on top.  Pour about ½ cup of olive oil (or more) over all.  Season with salt and pepper.

4.                  Cook in a preheated 350 degree oven for about 90 minutes.  Remove the hen from the oven and increase the temperature to 425 degrees. Then add 3 cups of grape juice, poured over hen, and cook until hen is crispy.

5.                  Remove the hen from the pan and deglaze the pan with another cup of grape juice (or more if necessary).  Make a buerre mane (equal parts butter & flour as a paste) and add to sauce a little at a time to thicken.

6.                  Cut the Guinea hen and serve with sauce ladled over or on the side.

 

Serves 4

 

What a way to showcase our region’s grapes!

 

Sauteed Rabbit with Cherry Beer and Dried Cherries, from "Everybody Eats Well in Belgium Cookbook" by Ruth Van Waerebeek
Sauteed Rabbit with Cherry Beer and Dried Cherries, a recipe created for a beer-tasting dinner at the James Beard House.  The secret of the sauce lies in the lambic kriek beer, a spontaneously fermented ale, original to Belgium, made from wheat, malter barley, and fresh black cherries, which impart their color and flavor.  It is brewed according to la methode champenoise, and the final product has the refinement, bubbles, and elegance of a great Champagne.  I like to serve the dish with wild rice, Belgian endives, and a casserole of wild mushrooms.  The accompanying beverage should certainly be kriek beer served in champagne glasses.  Buy three times the amount of beer called for in the recipe:  to drink during cooking, to cook with, and to serve with the meal!

3 Tbsp unsalted butter
1 whole rabbit, split or butterflied, boned if you're ambitious but OK to skip that
salt and pepper to taste
2 Tbsp finely diced carrot
2 Tbsp finely diced celery
2 Tbsp finely diced onion
1 Tbsp all-purpose flour
1 bottle (12 oz) cherry kriek lambic beer
2 Tbsp red currant jelly (visit Ayers Creek Farm's booth for this)
2 Tbsp dried cherries or cranberries (visit Cherry Country farm's booth for this)

1.  Melt butter in a heavy skillet until it foams.  Season the rabbit with salt and pepper, add it to the skillet, and sautee until browned on both sides and medium rare, about 10 minutes.  Do not overcook or the rabbit will be tough.  Remove meat to a warmed platter and set aside.
2.  Add any rabbit bones to the skillet if you have chosen to bone the rabbit; brown them for a few minutes being careful not to burn the butter.  Add the vegetables, stirring constantly, until vegetables have browned slightly.
3.  Sprinkle flour over the vegetables; cooking, stirring, until the flour is absorbed, about 1 minute.  Deglaze with beer, scraping up all the brown bits from the bottom of the pan, and boil for 1 minute.  Add the red currant jelly and stir until dissolved.
4.  Reduce the sauce by half over medium heat, 5 to 6 minutes.  Pour through a strainer and return the sauce to the skillet (Chrissie sometimes skips the straining).  Add the cherries and simmer 10 minutes. Swirl 1 Tbsp additional butter into the sauce; return the meat to the skillet and reheat quickly in the sauce.  Taste and adjust the salt and pepper, and serve at once.


Pheasant with Leek and Pecan Stuffing, from "The Silver Palate Cookbook" by Julee Russo and Sheila Lukins -- Chrissie's favorite way to prepare pheasant, guinea hen, and Red Bourbon turkey.  Chrissie and Koorosh agree:  Red Bourbon heritage breed turkey is the best poultry of any kind either of us has ever had, bar none.  It's not just for Thanksgiving.

This is hands-down the best poultry stuffing I've ever had.  It takes some work, so whever I make this recipe, I make a double-batch of the stuffing, and freeze it in ziplock bags before wetting it with broth.  Later when I want to roast something small and simple like a chicken or guinea hens, I just pull the ziplock out of the freezer, pour hot broth over the stuffing, stuff my bird, and roast.

On an amusing sidenote, the recipe is prefaced this way in the cookbook:  "We think pheasant is one of the most delicious of the domestically raised game birds available to us.  It is rich and meaty, with a firm texture no longer found in chicken.  If care is taken during roasting, the meat is moist and succulent."  Of course our customers know that you can in fact still get Real Chicken, and this recipe works great with chicken too.  And guinea hen.  And almost any game bird.

2 pheasants or guinea hens, or one large roasting chicken, or a Red Bourbon Turkey
1 tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion
1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped
2 tbsp plus 1 tsp dried marjoram, or 2 cups fresh in season
1/4 tsp dried thyme, or 1 tbsp fresh in season
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs Italian parsley
3 cups chicken stock (of course make your own from Kookoolan Farms feet and necks, don't buy canned)
12 Tbsp (1.5 sticks) sweet butter
10 medium-sized leeks, white part only, well cleaned and thinly sliced
6 cups crumbs from good-quality white or wheat bread
2 cups toasted pecans
1 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
4 slices of pancetta, 4 oz total (bacon can be substituted, but pancetta really tastes different and better! -- buy the most expensive pancetta at Viande Meats inside Pastaworks/City Market in northwest Portland, it really does make a difference in this recipe!)
1/2 cup heavy cream

1.  Rinse poultry inside and out, and pat dry with paper towels.  If organs are available, chop neck, heart and gizzard but save the liver for another use.
2.  heat oil in a small saucepan.  Brown neck and giblets well, turning frequently.  Add onion, carrot, and 1 tsp marjoram.  Reduce heat to low and cook covered undtil vegetables are tender, about 25 minutes.
3.  uncover, add thyme, bay, parsley, and stock, and season with a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for 45 minutes.  Strain the stock, discarding the solids, and reserve.
4.  melt the butter in a skillet.  stir in the sliced leeks and cook covered over low heat about 30 minutes until very tender.
5.  toss the leeks and their butter with the bread crumbs, pecans, chopped parsley, and remaining marjoram.  Season lightly with salt and generously with pepper, and toss again.  (NOTE:  at this point you can freeze part of the stuffing for later convenience.)  If the stuffing seems dry, moisten it with the reserved broth.
6.  preheat the oven to 375 F.
7.  Stuff your poultry, truss if necessary, and drape the breasts with pancetta.  Set the birds in a roasting pan.
8. set the roasting pan in the middle of the oven and roast until done, basting occasionally with the fat and juices that accumulate.  Chrissie likes to test smaller birds by pricking the thigh to check that the juices are clear; for turkeys, check the breast temperature.  When done, remove the birds from the pan, cover with foil, and keep warm while you make the gravy.
9.  Pour excess fat out of the pan (of course reserve it for later sauteeing of vegetables and potatoes).  Pour reserved stock and heavy cream into the pan, and set over medium heat.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, sturring and scraping up any browned bits, until sauce is reduced by about one third.  Taste and correct seasoning with salt and pepper, and morethyme if desired.
10. Carve birds, arrange the meat on a platter, mound the stuffing in the center of the platter, and drizzle the meat and stuffing with the sauce.  Serve immediately, passing the remaining sauce in a boat.

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CIDERHOUSE APPLE CHICKEN
  I received this from Debra Lynn Dadd's e-newsletter.  She served this with swiss chard, chopped and sauteed in a bit of butter with a sprinkling of nutmeg.  It was a perfect autumn meal for a rainy evening.  makes 4 servings
2 1/2 lbs chicken with bones (quartered chickens work well)
salt and pepper
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup good quality, fresh apple cider
2 cloves garlic
2 medium yellow onions
1 medium green apple
1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 cup cream
fresh parsley
 
1. If you are using chicken breasts, cut them into large chunks, about 2"x2". If you are using pieces, leave wings and legs whole and cut breasts into three pieces. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Melt the butter in your largest skillet, and lay out the pieces of chicken in a single layer. If they don't all fit, do this in batches. On high heat, cook until brown on both sides.
3. Pour the cider into the pan, and finely grate in the garlic cloves (if you don't have a fine grater like a microplane, you can also use a garlic press or chop very fine).
4. Slice the onions and apple (leave skin on but remove core) and lay slices on top of the chicken.
5. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes.
6. Remove chicken, apples, and onions from pan into a bowl, and cover to keep warm. Add mustard and cream to pan juices. Cook for a few minutes on high heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens. Add chicken, apples, and onions back into the pan and stir to coat with sauce.
7. Serve to warm dishes and sprinkle with parsley.

 

JACKIE BESSLER'S HASENPFEFFER
(German Peppered Hare/Rabbit)

This is the recipe I used for the rabbit we bought from you awhile back.  It was delicious.  I think the only thing I’d add would be fresh mushrooms, in season.  We served this with wild rice and a fresh salad from Growing Wild Farm. 2 ½ pounds of rabbit (up to 3#), cut up
2 cups Pinot Noir
1 tablespoons good quality wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar (with the mother)
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon sea salt
1 teaspoon whole cloves
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 bay leaves

Place cut-up rabbit in flat refrigerator container.  In bowl, combine remaining ingredients; pour over rabbit.  Marinate overnight in refrigerator.  Place marinated rabbit in crock pot.  Add 1 ½ cups marinade, cover and cook on low for 8 to 10 hours.  Remove meat to warm platter.  Thicken gravy, if desired.  Serves 4.

 

Confit of Duck or Goose

Here is an easy step by step way to successfully prepare confit of duck with ideas for variations. Ingredients
Curing

  • 4 legs of duck, or a whole goose or duck, cut into eight pieces
  • 2 tbsp. sea salt
  • 1 rosemary stalk
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 6 juniper berries
  • 1 garlic clove

     

To Cook

500-600g (1 lb) duck or goose or chicken fat, or lard

  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1 rosemary stem
  • 1 bay leaf

     

Method

To Cure: Rub the salt into the duck legs and place in a container with the garlic, rosemary, bay leaf and juniper berries. Cover and leave in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Remove the duck from the refrigerator and lightly wash off all the salt and pat dry the duck or brush off all the salt.

To Cook: Place the duck fat in a pan which is large enough to hold the fat and duck legs, with a heat proof lid. Over a moderately low heat melt the duck fat. Add the garlic, rosemary, bay leaf and the duck legs. The fat should totally cover the duck. Cover the pan and cook slowly on the stove or in the oven at the lowest setting (it is best to cook in the oven if your stove doesn't have a very low heat). Cook the duck legs for 2 hours then remove from the oven and allow to cool.

To Store:
Remove the duck from the fat and place in a jar or container. Strain the fat through a muslin and pour it over the duck so that it is totally covered, be careful not to pour in any of the duck stock that will be at the bottom you may set this aside to use for a sauce. Seal the container well and refrigerate until ready to cook. The duck can be eaten straight away if necessary but it is best left for at least one week to allow the flavours to develop.  Keeps well for months if kept cool and dry, and if each time you remove a piece of meat you make sure what remains is well covered in fat.  

 

Suggestions for use

A piece of confit, sautéed briefly, in which new potatoes and perhaps a truffle are then sautéed.
Porcini or other wild mushrooms, sautéed with a bit of confit,
Fall cabbage sautéed in confit.


Roasted Wild Goose
(or duck, or teal, or other waterfowl)
From Kookoolan Farms customer and neighbor, Ursula Bessler

Wild waterfowl can easily start tasting oily, so it should be prepared fresh.  Take out the fat gland in the back or cut off the tail.  An optional additional step is to skin the goose and then to dip it into hot water to remove the rest of the fat.  Marinade for 2-3 days.

Marinade: 1 clove, 4  crushed juniper berries, 1/2 teaspoon crushed peppercorns, 1 bay leaf, 1 twig thyme, 1 onion cut into slices, chopped  parsley, 2 parts red wine, 1 part vinegar, 1 part water, or red wine only.  The meat should be completely covered by the marinade.  The best way is to marinade the meat in a freezer bag, and put the bag into a container, that way you won't
need so much liquid.  Put the container in a cold place and turn daily.

Cooking:
Place inside the goose:  1 apple, 1 onion, both quartered; some sprigs of parsley, thyme, sage, 1 bayleaf.  Put the goose on a rack into a roasting pan, breast down.  Pour hot broth
(about 1 inch) into the pan.  Then cook the goose in a pre-heated 400 F oven for 30 minutes.  Then turn oven down to 350F, turn goose breast side up and cover top with sliced bacon.  (The smoked bacon-flavor goes well with the flavor of wild game). Then roast about 20 to 30 minutes per pound.  It is important to pour broth over the goose often, but carefully without dislodging the bacon.  The inside temperature should be 180 F.  Do not roast too long, as the meat will get dry and will lose its flavor. 

When the goose is done, turn off oven and let goose rest in the oven for 15 minutes.

If you use wine only, or if your marinade does not taste too vinegary, you can use part of it with chicken broth to baste the goose and for gravy.   

Guten Appetit! 

 

Lavender Lemon Chicken

1/2 cup butter, room temperature
1-2 teaspoons dried lavender
1 teaspoon dried thyme
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 large onion
1 (4-7 lb) Kookoolan Farms chicken, whole
1/4 cup dry vermouth
1/2 cup chicken stock
1-2 tablespoon flour

In a small bowl or mortar and pestle coarsely crush lavender and thyme. Then stir together with butter, zest, salt and pepper until well combined. Spoon mixture onto a sheet of plastic wrap and form into a 4-inch log. Chill butter log until firm, at least 30 minutes, and up to 3 days.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Rinse chicken and pat dry. Slice herb butter and reserve 2 tablespoons for sauce. Slide hand under skin of chicken breast to loosen skin from meat. Insert about 3/4's of the butter under the skin and spread the rest over the outside of chicken. Truss chicken. Place the chicken in a flameproof roasting pan. Slice the onion into large pieces and scatter around the chicken. Roast bird in middle of oven until an instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest part of a thigh (be careful not to touch bone) registers 170° to 175°F. It will take roughly 55-65 minutes for a four pound chicken and 8 minutes more per every pound over that.

Lift chicken and tilt, emptying any juices from cavity into roasting pan. Remove the chicken to a platter, cover loosely with foil. Sauce: Add vermouth to pan. Place pan over high heat; bring vermouth to boil, scraping up any browned bits and onions. Strain the mixture into cup with pan juices. Spoon fat off and pour back into the pan. Add reserved 2 tablespoons herb butter and bring to a simmer - or melt butter before adding to pan. When butter has completely melted,add flour and whisk until smooth. Serve sauce with chicken.


Kookoolan Farms Moroccan-Style Grilled Poultry
This was originally a recipe for game hens, so the overnight marinade works great with the firmer texture and meatier flavor outdoor-raised poultry and gourmet game birds.  The Moroccan spices are great for summer barbeques. 

This is a grill dinner your family and guests will talk about for years.  The combination of herbs, spices, and peanut oil really brings out the bird’s natural flavors.  Free-range or wild poultry will stand up to the long marinade far better than confinement-raised birds.  Works great with chicken, pheasant, guinea hens, Cornish game hens, or squabs.  For wilder-raised birds, which tend to be much leaner than confinement-raised birds, turn down the temperature of your grill to medium or medium-high, and cook a little more slowly, in order to avoid drying them out.  Their leaner flesh tends toward toughness when cooked at higher temperatures.

INGREDIENTS:

  • 2 small birds (3 pounds or less), halved lengthwise; or one large bird (4 lbs), quartered, for each 4 persons.
  • 1/4 cup peanut oil
  • 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons cilantro
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 tablespoon paprika
  • 2 teaspoons allspice
  • 2 teaspoons cinnamon
  • 2 teaspoons turmeric
  • 2 teaspoons grated ginger
  • 2 teaspoons lemon zest
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • olive oil

    PREPARATION:

    Combine all marinade ingredients in a small bowl. Place poultry in a large ziplock bag, pour in the marinade, press out the air and seal.  Marinate in the refrigerator at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours. Preheat grill for medium-high heat.  Place birds on the grill, breast side down, and discard the unused marinade.  Cook the poultry for 20 minutes, then turn and grill for an additional 30, or until juices run clear or internal temperature of the thigh reads between 175-180. Remove from grill, allow to rest for a few minutes and serve. 

     

SERVING: For a great middle-eastern-themed, outdoor BBQ dinner party, grill pita bread as well, and serve with hummus, baba ghanoush eggplant spread, yogurt-mint sauce, a salad of fresh cucumbers, parsley, and tomatoes, and rice.  Follow with a dessert of Baklava, sugared almonds, and Turkish coffee for a truly memorable evening.

 

Rabbit and Lemon Tagine                                                              

Ingredients :
1 rabbit, jointed
1
lemon
4
onions
4
cloves garlic
2 oz
butter
Salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh grated
ginger
1/2 teaspoon powdered
cumin
1 stick
cinnamon
2g
saffron (in stamens, not powdered)
1 bunch
parsley
1 bunch
coriander
Chicken stock

Recipe :
Peel and chop
onions, crush garlic and chop herbs.
Melt
butter in a large pan, brown meat.
Add
onions once rabbit is golden.
Cook for a few more minutes, then remove liver from heat.
Add
ginger, cumin, cinnamon, saffron and crushed garlic, then stir in 300ml stock.
Season.
Mix ingredients well, then leave to cook for 30 minutes.
Add up to 1 cup more stock if necessary during
cooking, to keep meat moist.
Add
juice of half a lemon, parsley and coriander.
Chop and add liver, leave to cook for a further 10 minutes.

Make
couscous:
Weigh out, then cover with boiling water or stock. Cover bowl and leave
couscous to absorb water, until light and fluffy. Melt in a knob of butter to taste.

Serve
couscous and meat together.


Advice :
This is a tasty dish, full of nutrients:
Rich in iron and potassium, rabbit meat also contains trace elements and minerals, essential for a healthy, balanced diet.
With more proteins than most meats, rabbit is especially good for children and teenagers.
Rabbit meat is also rich in vitamines B, PP, and E, which makes it great for anyone who does a lot of sport, or who wants to build muscle. Protein is also good for the nervous system and protects cells from ageing.
Lean and tender, rabbit meat is very easily digested.

Recommended wines:
- Bordeau: St Emilion
- Burgandy: Maçon, Saumur Champigny
- Rhone Valley: Tavel, Côtes de Provence

 


Sauteed Mushrooms and Wild Vegetables

Ingredients:

2 Tbsp Chicken fat (or butter). 

Small bunch of wild leeks or green onions

1 lb mixed wild/gourmet mushrooms

½ lb fiddlehead ferns, seabeans, and braising greens

2 TBSP demiglace

¼ cup sherry wine. 

¼ cup chevre cheese (or heavy cream).

1 tsp dried thyme

black pepper to taste

 


In a large sauté pan, melt a little chicken fat (or butter).  Saute leeks and mixed mushrooms.  If desired you can include some leftover lamb or chicken or some ground beef.  After about 3 minutes, add the rest of the vegetables.

After about 5-6 minutes, when vegetables have softened and are slightly brown, and any raw meat has cooked through, add 2 TBSP chicken demiglace and ¼ cup sherry wine. 

After about 1-2 minutes, when the sauce has thickened, add ¼ cup chevre cheese (or heavy cream).

 

Season with thyme and black pepper, and then serve the whole thing over polenta or pasta or couscous. 

 

Pairing: 

 

Choose a beverage with a rich strong taste and high in acid, such as a chardonnay or a big red wine or a Belgian beer, or with kombucha tea for a non-alcoholic choice.


Pasta in Brodo con Fegatini e Piselli

This recipe is provided by Anthony Boutard of Ayers Creek Farm:  From Italian Cooking, by Elizabeth David.

I first came across this minestra in Verona; it is one of the nicest pasta in brodo mixtures, mild, soothing and freshly flavoured.

The quantities for two people are a pint of chicken broth, 4 or 5 chicken livers, 6-8 oz. of shelled green peas, about 1-1/2 oz. fine pasta (it should be home-made, in short strips about the thickness of a match, but ready made pasta will do), Parmesan cheese, and a little butter.  

If using ready-made pasta, first cook it for 5 minutes, with the green peas, in plenty of boiling salted water.  Drain it, and then heat the broth to boiling point and put in the pasta and peas, which should be young and very fresh, so they will be cooked at the same time as the pasta.  Clean and chop the chicken livers, not too small.  Heat them through in the butter, and add them to the pasta and broth, with their butter.  Add some grated Parmesan cheese when the broth is ready to serve."

The recipe is provided verbatim.  Please note that the British Imperial pint is bigger than the US pint.

Stumptown Savoury's Thanksgiving Recipes for Kookoolan Farms heritage turkeys

Getting the most from your turkey or other poultry

Here are some tips for your Thanksgiving turkey, with thanks to New Seasons, Diestel, Betty Crocker, Cook's Illustrated, and the Silver Palate:

1.  Keep it cold.

Keep it cold until Thursday.  A refrigerator is ideal, but who has space in their refrigerator this time of year?  You may have a picnic cooler out in the garage.  Go wash it out with soap and then a bleach rinse so it's sterile, and then let the cooler “air out” for a few hours so it no longer smells like bleach.  You may even want to throw it in the car for bringing to the farmer's market.  Put the turkey in the cooler, and fill it with ice.  Voila, that's it, the turkey will be fine on your porch or in your garage until Thursday morning.

2.  Brining improves a good turkey!

For even better results, combine the above advice with brining.  Brining really brings out the flavor and moisture in a turkey.  Take the turkey out of its plastic bag and place it in the clean picnic cooler.  Pour ice all around it.  Separately, in a small saucepan, dissolve 1 cup sugar and two pounds of kosher salt (don't use table salt, because this will pickle your turkey!).  Once dissolved, remove from heat and let cool.  To this basic brine, you can add aromatic flavors, such as maple syrup and apple cider; or a few drops of lavender oil and a half cup of tarragon vinegar; or soy sauce and black pepper.  Now pour the brine into the cooler, and add more water to cover the turkey.  You can leave it in the salty icewater for up to a few days.

3.  Even better – now that the meat is brined, let the skin dry a bit.  Chill uncovered the night before.

“Cook's Illustrated” happened on this technique several years ago.  Brining does wonderful things to turkey meat, but tends to over-soften the skin.  In their test kitchens, they ran out of time at the end of a workday, and so left the ready-to-roast turkey uncovered in the refrigerator overnight.  This dried the skin out, and when they roasted the turkey the next day, the skin was crisp and brown.  You may want to rub the turkey with a nice oily spice rub, for example, sage, salt, and black pepper mixed with olive oil, before or after the uncovered chilling.  If you're going to stuff the turkey, you'd do that between steps 2 and 3.  Chrissie's favorite stuffing recipe, especially for a Red Bourbon turkey, is the recipe for "Pheasant with Leek and Pecan Stuffing" from the original Silver Palate cookbook and reprinted in the new 25th-anniversary special edition.  Go get a copy.  It's worth it.  In the meantime, that recipe follows step 5 (keep reading).

 

4.  Roasting.

There are as many techniques as there are people giving you advice.  You can start at 500°F for the first hour, then turn down to 350°, which New Seasons says will cook a 20-pound, unstuffed turkey in about three hours.  Or you can roast at a constant temperature of 325°F as recommended by Diestel, with estimated times of 3 hours for a 14-pounder, 4 hours for a 19-pounder, 5 hours for a 27-pounder, or 6 hours for a 34-pounder.  Your best bet is always to use a meat thermometer:  the deepest breast meat should register 165°F and the thigh should register 175°F.  Let the bird rest for 15-30 minutes after removing from the oven and before roasting.  During this resting time, you mobilize your guests to move all the other food onto the table and take drink orders and pour the drinks, while you make the gravy.

5.  Gravy.

Sure, you can make a low-fat gravy by adding a few ice cubes to congeal the fat for skimming and then using cornstarch.  But this is Thanksgiving after all, and there's a lot of flavor in meat fat.  I prefer to skim the fat into a saucepan, add an equal amount of flour to make a roux, cook for a few minutes over medium heat until the flour no longer smells raw and begins to color toward blond or caramel, and then add the turkey au jus and stir until thickened. 

CHRISSIE’S FAVORITE RECIPE FOR RED BOURBONS, PHEASANTS, AND GUINEA HENS

Pheasant with Leek and Pecan Stuffing, stolen shamelessly from "The Silver Palate Cookbook" by Julee Russo and Sheila Lukins -- Chrissie's favorite way to prepare pheasant, guinea hen, and Red Bourbon turkey.  Chrissie and Koorosh agree:  Red Bourbon heritage breed turkey is the best poultry of any kind either of us has ever had, bar none.  It's not just for Thanksgiving.

This is hands-down the best poultry stuffing I've ever had.  It takes some work, so whenever I make this recipe, I make a double-batch of the stuffing, and freeze it in ziplock bags before wetting it with broth.  Later when I want to roast something small and simple like a chicken or guinea hens, I just pull the ziplock out of the freezer, pour hot broth over the stuffing, stuff my bird, and roast.

On an amusing sidenote, the recipe is prefaced this way in the cookbook:  "We think pheasant is one of the most delicious of the domestically raised game birds available to us.  It is rich and meaty, with a firm texture no longer found in chicken.  If care is taken during roasting, the meat is moist and succulent."  Of course our customers know that you can in fact still get Real Chicken, and this recipe works great with chicken too.  And guinea hen.  And almost any game bird.

2 pheasants or guinea hens, or one large roasting chicken, or a Red Bourbon Turkey
1 tbsp olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion
1 large carrot, peeled and finely chopped
2 tbsp plus 1 tsp dried marjoram, or 2 cups fresh in season
1/4 tsp dried thyme, or 1 tbsp fresh in season
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs Italian parsley
3 cups chicken stock (of course make your own from Kookoolan Farms feet and necks, don't buy canned)
12 Tbsp (1.5 sticks) sweet butter
10 medium-sized leeks, white part only, well cleaned and thinly sliced
6 cups crumbs from good-quality white or wheat bread
2 cups toasted pecans
1 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
4 slices of pancetta, 4 oz total (bacon can be substituted, but pancetta really tastes different and better! -- buy the most expensive pancetta at Viande Meats inside Pastaworks/City Market in northwest Portland, it really does make a difference in this recipe!)
1/2 cup heavy cream

1.  Rinse poultry inside and out, and pat dry with paper towels.  If organs are available, chop neck, heart and gizzard but save the liver for another use.
2.  heat oil in a small saucepan.  Brown neck and giblets well, turning frequently.  Add onion, carrot, and 1 tsp marjoram.  Reduce heat to low and cook covered undtil vegetables are tender, about 25 minutes.
3.  uncover, add thyme, bay, parsley, and stock, and season with a pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for 45 minutes.  Strain the stock, discarding the solids, and reserve.
4.  melt the butter in a skillet.  stir in the sliced leeks and cook covered over low heat about 30 minutes until very tender.
5.  toss the leeks and their butter with the bread crumbs, pecans, chopped parsley, and remaining marjoram.  Season lightly with salt and generously with pepper, and toss again.  (NOTE:  at this point you can freeze part of the stuffing for later convenience.)  If the stuffing seems dry, moisten it with the reserved broth.
6.  preheat the oven to 375 F.
7.  Stuff your poultry, truss if necessary, and drape the breasts with pancetta.  Set the birds in a roasting pan.
8. set the roasting pan in the middle of the oven and roast until done, basting occasionally with the fat and juices that accumulate.  Chrissie likes to test smaller birds by pricking the thigh to check that the juices are clear; for turkeys, check the breast temperature.  When done, remove the birds from the pan, cover with foil, and keep warm while you make the gravy.
9.  Pour excess fat out of the pan (of course reserve it for later sauteeing of vegetables and potatoes).  Pour reserved stock and heavy cream into the pan, and set over medium heat.  Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer, sturring and scraping up any browned bits, until sauce is reduced by about one third.  Taste and correct seasoning with salt and pepper, and morethyme if desired.
10. Carve birds, arrange the meat on a platter, mound the stuffing in the center of the platter, and drizzle the meat and stuffing with the sauce.  Serve immediately, passing the remaining sauce in a boat.

Recipes from Stumptown Savoury

Basic Brine

6 quarts water
1 cup kosher salt
¼-½ sugar or other sweetener(s)

Molasses Brine

6 quarts water
1 cup kosher salt
¼ cup grade B maple syrup
¼ cup blackstrap molasses
4 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick about 3" long
1 medium navel orange, quartered and squeezed into the brine
1 small bunch parsley
3 whole star anise
1 teaspoon whole allspice

Apple Brine

2 quarts apple juice or cider
4 quarts water
1 cup kosher salt
¼ cup sugar
4 sage leaves, rubbed
1 teaspoon whole allspice
4 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick about 3" long

 

Tequila-Agave Brine

6 quarts water
1 cup kosher salt
½ cup agave syrup
¼ cup tequila
2 limes, quartered and squeezed into the brine

 

Cranberry-Pear Salsa

12 ounces cranberries, fresh or frozen, roughly chopped
2 pears, diced
1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 serrano chile, seeded and diced
zest of 1 orange
1 tablespoon blue agave syrup or honey
1 tablespoon canola oil
salt to taste

Mix ingredients together and adjust the seasoning. If you want more heat, use the seeds or add another chile. Best served at room temperature.

Cranberry-Apple Chutney

12 ounces cranberries, fresh or frozen
1 Fuji apple, seeded and chopped
1 Macintosh apple, seeded and chopped
zest and juice of 1 navel orange
1 cup mulling spice simple syrup
¼ cup mulling spices (tied in cheesecloth)
¼ cup chopped crystallized ginger
2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
salt to taste

If you don't have mulling spice simple syrup, you can make it by mixing 1 cup sugar with 1 cup water and ¼ cup mulling spices. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer 5 minutes. Alternatively, make the chutney using 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in place of the simple syrup.

Put all the ingredients into a pan over medium-low heat. Simmer until the cranberries release their juice, about 10 minutes. Continue simmering, stirring frequently, until thickened, then remove the spices in cheesecloth. Adjust the seasoning. This can be served warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

Cranberry-Orange Relish

12 ounces cranberries, fresh or frozen
1 medium navel orange, cut into 8 wedges, peel and all
1/3 cup chopped crystallized ginger
1 tablespoon sugar
salt to taste

Using a food processor, pulse the ingredients until roughly chopped. Adjust the seasoning. Serve chilled.

Chocolate Mousse

1 lb. bittersweet chocolate (63% cacao)
8 oz. unsalted butter
¼ teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
1 shot espresso (optional)
pinch of salt (optional)
4 egg yolks
8 egg whites
pinch cream of tartar (optional)
1 cup heavy cream

Gently melt the chocolate and butter, then stir in the optional cinnamon, espresso, and salt. Separate four eggs, stirring the yolks into the melted chocolate and reserving the whites. Then separate four more eggs, reserving the yolks for crème anglaise or another recipe. Whip the cream to stiff peaks, then whip the egg whites, optionally adding a pinch of cream of tartar, to soft peaks. Gently fold the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture. Give the whites a finally touch-up with a whisk, then fold into the mousse.

Line a 1-pound loaf pan generously with plastic wrap, then pour the mousse into the pan, tap it on the counter to remove air bubbles, fold the plastic over the mousse to cover, then refrigerate. It will usually set within an hour, but tastes best if you leave it overnight.

Crème Anglaise

½ cup milk (4 ounces)
½ cup heavy cream (4 ounces)
½ vanilla bean
4 egg yolks (2 ounces)
¼ cup sugar (2 ounces)

Mix the milk and cream in a small saucepan. Split the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the pan, then add the pod. Bring just to a simmer, then remove from the heat and let steep for 15 minutes or so to infuse the dairy with vanilla flavor.

Partially fill the largest bowl with equal parts ice and water, and set the larger of the remaining bowls on the ice. Set a strainer in place over that bowl.

After the vanilla has infused the dairy to your satisfaction, remove the vanilla pod, then return the pan to gentle heat and stir frequently. In the third bowl, quickly whisk the yolks and sugar together. Once the dairy reaches a simmer, remove it from the heat and whisk about a tablespoon of it into the yolk and sugar mixture. Continue adding the dairy to the yolk and sugar mixture slowly to avoid curdling.

Once the dairy, yolks, and sugar are fully incorporated, return the custard to the pan and return the pan to the heat. Stir constantly for 1-4 minutes until the custard coats the back of a spoon. Pour through the strainer into the bowl over the ice. Stir until cool, cover, and refrigerate. If it sits overnight the vanilla flavor will be more pronounced. Serve cold, room temperature, or even warm, as your dessert requires.

Chorizo

3¼ pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1" cubes
2 tablespoons kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
2 teaspoons chipotle chile powder
1 teaspoon achiote chile powder
½ teaspoon guajillo chile powder
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
50ml (3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon) tequila

Start by cleaning and cubing the pork. You'll want to remove as much as possible of the "silver skin" and tendons as possible. You might find that you need some extra pork fat if the piece of meat you've selected is too lean. Mix the meat with everything except the tequila and refrigerate for at least two hours or up to overnight. Chill the tequila as well.

You want to chill everything because grinding the meat involves friction, which generates heat. The more chilled your meat is to start with, the better the resulting texture and flavor.

When you're ready to grind the sausage, set up your stand mixer with a food grinder attachment, or set up your meat grinder if you have one. You'll also need a bowl of ice to hold the catch bowl for your sausage; once again, you want to keep the sausage as chilled as possible.

Grind the sausage using a medium grind, then place it in the work bowl of your stand mixer. Using the flat paddle attachment, mix the chilled tequila into the sausage for 1-2 minutes. Quickly cook as small bit of the sausage and taste to adjust the seasonings. Remember that as the sausage cures the flavors will intensify.

Remove the sausage to a storage container and refrigerate for a day before using--if you can wait that long, that is. This sausage freezes well and will last 1-3 months, depending on how cold you keep your freezer.

Buttermilk Cornbread

1 tablespoon rendered bacon fat (or canola oil)
1½ cups white cornmeal (or yellow)
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons sugar (optional)
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
¼ cup canola oil
1½ cups cultured buttermilk
1 large egg

Start by preheating your oven to 450°F/230°C. Once it's ready, add the bacon fat to the skillet and put it into the oven to preheat. You'll want to give the pan at least 10-15 minutes to get hot, so take your time.

Whisk all the dry ingredients together until well mixed and any lumps of baking soda have disappeared. The small amount of sugar in this recipe isn't enough to sweeten the bread, but if you're in the "No Sugar in Cornbread!" camp, or cooking for someone who is, leave it out.

In a separate bowl, thoroughly mix the wet ingredients, then add to the dry ingredients and mix until they just come together. Remove the hot pan from the oven--the bacon fat should be smoking slightly. Carefully pour the batter into the pan, then put the pan back into the oven.

Bake for 18 minutes or so, until the bread is set and slightly browned. Remove the pan from the oven and let it cool about five minutes.

 

 

Basic Dressing

8 cups bread cubes
1 onion, diced (about ½ cup)
½ cup diced celery
1-2 cups turkey stock

Sauté the onion and celery until the onion is translucent. In a large bowl, mix with the bread cubes, then mix in hot turkey stock until the bread is just moistened.

For Cornbread Dressing, use 5 cups of cornbread and 3 cups of white bread.

Candied Sweet Potatoes

3 lbs. sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/8-inch thick
kosher salt
½ cup chopped pecans
¼-½ cup bourbon
1 cup heavy cream
¾ cup dark brown sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
marshmallows to cover

Butter a 9x13 baking pan. Place a layer of potatoes on the bottom, season with salt, and spread about a third of the pecans on them. Repeat twice more. Pour the bourbon and cream over the potatoes, then spread the brown sugar over the top and dot with butter. Cover with foil and bake in a 350° oven until done, about 50-60 minutes. Remove the dish from the oven and uncover. Top with marshmallows and brown under the broiler about one minute.

Pecan Pie

Pastry crust mix for 9-inch pie (see below)
4 eggs
¾ cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
1½ cups light corn syrup
1 tablespoon butter, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup pecan halves

Preheat oven to 400°F. Prepare pie shell. Beat eggs lightly and add sugar, salt, corn syrup, cooled butter, and vanilla; stir until mixed well. Spread pecan halves on bottom crust and cover with the filling. Place in oven and immediately reduce heat to 350°F. Bake 40–50 minutes or until mixture is firm in center. Cool before serving.

Pastry Crust Mix

3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons sugar
1 cup shortening
Ice water

Mix dry ingredients together. Blend in shortening with knives or pastry blender until mixture is of pebbly consistency. Store in covered container in refrigerator. When needed, measure out these amounts:

Single crust                   Double crust

8-inch pie   1–1¼ cups            2–2¼ cups
9-inch pie   1½ cups               2½ cups
10-inch pie 1¾ cups               2¾ cups
12 tart shells 2¾ cups

Moisten pastry mix with enough ice water to hold dough together when pushed lightly with a fork. Roll out on lightly floured board or pastry cloth.

Note: When recipe calls for prebaked shells, line pan with dough, prick well with a fork, and bake at 425°F for 12–15 minutes or until golden brown.

Classic Waldorf Salad

½ cup mayonnaise
1 tbsp. sugar
1 tbsp. lemon juice
pinch salt
3 med. apples, diced
1 c. sliced celery
1/2 c. chopped walnuts

Combine first 4 ingredients. Stir in remaining ingredients. Cover and chill. Makes 5 1/2 cups.

Whipped Chipotle Sweet Potatoes

Bake sweet potatoes until very soft. As soon as they are cool enough to handle, cut them in half and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Whip with minced chipotle in adobo, softened butter, and salt, to taste. Spread into a buttered baking dish and bake at 350° until heated through.

Tequila-Chipotle Crème Anglaise

When making crème anglaise (see above for recipe), infuse the cream with one cinnamon stick, one tablespoon of añejo tequila, one teaspoon of minced chipotle in adobo, and ¼ vanilla pod. Proceed as in the basic recipe.

Tequila-Agave Vinaigrette

1 teaspoon grapefruit zest
1 teaspoon orange zest
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons reposada or añejo tequila
2 tablespoons agave nectar or honey
salt and pepper to taste

Butternut Squash Pie

For the crust:

1 cup candied nuts
1 cup finely ground ginger snap crumbs
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted

For the filling:

1½ cups butternut squash purée (or 1-15oz. can of pumpkin purée)
¼ cup maple syrup
¼ cup light brown sugar
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon vanilla paste (or extract)
3 eggs, beaten
¾ cup heavy cream

To make the crust, process the candied nuts in a food processor until finely ground. In a bowl, combine with the cookie crumbs and mix thoroughly. Add the melted butter and stir until the mix is thoroughly moistened. Pour into a 9-inch pie dish and press the mixture with your fingers until it evenly coats the bottom and sides. Set aside.

In a large bowl, mix the filling ingredients thoroughly, then pour into the prepared pie shell. Bake at 350° until a thin skewer or toothpick inserted into the middle comes out clean, about 45-55 minutes. Let cool for at least 30 minutes before serving.

 

 

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